TRAVEL

GERMANY’S HIDDEN GEMS

Discovering the rivers, roots and quiet magic of Passau and the Bavarian Forest.

By Lionel Bebbington

The winding spiral path rises gently through the forest canopy, stretching 1,300 metres to the tip of the treetop tower in Bavarian Forest National Park.

I HAD NEVER BEEN TO THIS PART OF EUROPE, and as a photographer, I was excited to explore and capture a region entirely new to me. Landing in Munich, Bavaria’s capital city, my quest took me east by train. A few hours later — through rolling hills, green fields and quaint villages — the crowds thinned, the landscape opened up, and I arrived in the charming riverside town of Passau. Situated where Germany brushes up against Austria and the Czech Republic, this tucked-away town was the beginning of the adventure.

From Passau, I ventured deeper into the Bavarian Forest, where quiet trails and unexpected beauty awaited. It made me feel like I’d stepped into another world. It became a visually stunning reminder that, sometimes, the best discoveries happen a little off the beaten path.

(From left) Traditional lederhosen worn by my guide, Dominik, during a tour of Veste Oberhaus Castle; classic Baroque architecture lining the streets of Passau; the scenic corner where the three rivers meet in Passau; a hearty lunch of Spätzle at Zum Oedbauern in Lam.

Passau

KNOWN AS THE “City of Three Rivers” — it’s the confluence of the Danube, Inn and Ilz — Passau is a picturesque town of cobbled lanes lined with vibrantly coloured Baroque buildings. After some quiet moments people-watching on a patio, my journey brought me to the hilltop Veste Oberhaus for stunning town views and a pleasing wander through its museum.

I visited the magnificent St. Stephen’s Cathedral to see its massive pipe organ and took a peaceful river cruise down the Danube. With its mix of German, Austrian and Italian cultural influences, Passau offers a rich tapestry of culture — from diverse foods and architecture to festivals and, of course, great beer. A stroll through Passau’s charming cobblestone streets, lined with galleries, restaurants, shops and cafés.

(From left) A view of the ornate ceiling inside St. Stephen’s Cathedral, home to the largest cathedral organ in the world, with 17,974 pipes and 233 stops; there are bursts of colour and character at every turn, with vibrant vignettes tucked into corners throughout the city; a view of Passau’s Old Town from the Danube River cruise.

“Passau offers a rich tapestry of culture — from diverse foods and architecture to festivals and, of course, great beer.”

(From left) Bronze horses in the courtyard of Veste Oberhaus; figure sketches inside the Oberhausmuseum, offering a quiet moment of reflection within the castle’s historic stone walls; a narrow Baroque passageway leading toward St. Stephen’s Cathedral; a window view from Veste Oberhaus, overlooking the point where the Danube, Inn and Ilz rivers meet.

The Bavarian Forest

THE BAVARIAN FOREST, about 45 minutes from Passau, unfolds like a living postcard, with winding roads, dense evergreens and peaceful villages. I began in the town of Neuschönau with a spectacular treetop walk through beeches, firs and spruces that takes hikers up to 25 metres above the forest floor. Later, I paused at the Glass Museum in Frauenau, then continued on to Lam. There, a guide led a hike up to the old Einöde farms, which integrate various farm functions under a single roof, such as equipment storage and stables — a defining characteristic of the Bavarian landscape. Surrounded by rolling hills and open skies, this deep forest immersion somehow allowed me to both stay active and slow down at the same time. A misty morning walk high above the forest floor on the Bavarian Forest treetop path.

(From left) A panoramic view over the canopy, with the winding path and vibrant autumn colours stretching toward the Rachel and Lusen mountains; my guide, Heinrich, pauses beside one of the towering trees along the route; the signature spiral tower, also known as “the egg”, marking the summit of the walk.

“Surrounded by rolling hills and open skies, this deep forest immersion somehow allowed me to both stay active and slow down at the same time.”

DON’T MISS Frauenau Glass Museum

In Frauenau, I stepped into the shimmering world of the Glass Museum, a place where centuries of craftsmanship come to life. This isn’t merely a collection of objects; it’s a journey through time, tracing the story of glass from its ancient origins in Mesopotamia to bold contemporary works.

(From left) Cattle grazing near the Einöde farms, surrounded by forest and framed by crisp autumn skies; my hiking guide, Ingrid, shares stories along the trail through this quiet corner of Bavaria; an alpine-style guesthouse nestled into the hillside adds to the region’s idyllic charm; a warm welcome at Zum Oedbauern, where the hike ends with a hearty lunch in a rustic farmhouse; a sun-dappled forest floor, carpeted with moss and fallen leaves, invites a moment of pause.

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