Savouring History in Castilla y León

In northern Spain, dramatic architecture, ancient artifacts and centuries-old traditions bring the past to life.

By Sabrina Pirillo

The Gothic style León Cathedral houses one the world’s largest medieval stained glass collections. | VIDEO: SERGEY DZYUBA/DREAMSTIME.COM

I’m sitting in the León Cathedral in the city of León, Spain, and I feel like I’m inside a box of glittering jewels. The sun shines through the 1,800 sq. m of stained glass panels high above, creating a dazzling, arcing kaleidoscope of colours. I’m awed by the building’s age — construction began in the 13th century — and by how vibrant it still is. But this is just the first of many surprises that Castilla y León has in store. It’s my first time in Spain and my first day exploring Castilla y León, a region in the northern part of the country. Many first-time tourists stick to larger cities such as Barcelona, Madrid and Sevilla, but I was intrigued to visit this semi-arid, mountainous area, which is home to eleven UNESCO World Heritage Sites, walkable cities and a renowned wine-producing region. And as I soon learn, Castilla y León’s treasures go far beyond its most famous. Around every corner, history waits to be discovered.

Tall stained glass windows in colourful patterns inside León Cathedral, above a gold altar.

Stained glass windows turn architecture into light inside León Cathedral. | PHOTO: MEHDI33300/iSTOCK

A bright, high-ceilinged library with wooden bookshelves and glass display cases in the centre

A ceiling covered in faded red and brown paintings of religious figures.

San Isidoro Library holds ancient manuscripts and rare volumes; the frescoed ceiling of the Royal Panthenon depicts religious scenes. | PHOTOS: COURTESY OF SABRINA PIRILLO

The bejewelled Chalice of Doña Urraca. | PHOTO: COURTESY OF JOSÉ-MANUEL BENITO ÁLVAREZ

León’s deep roots

After an easy two-hour journey by high-speed train from Madrid, I check into the Hotel Real Colegiata de San Isidoro, part of the architectural complex that houses the Basilica and Museum of San Isidoro. My accommodations are modern and comfortable, but they retain the warm, minimalist feel of the Augustinian monastery that San Isidoro was originally built as in the 11th century. I stroll through the museum and discover the Royal Pantheon, known by some as the Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art. The space features marble columns and astonishingly well-preserved medieval frescoes; it’s a fitting final resting place for twenty-three kings and queens, nine princes and several counts and nobles who lived and ruled here almost a thousand years ago. The museum contains 2,000 relics and artifacts, including a 10th-century Mozarabic Bible and the Ark of Ivories, built in 1059 to hold the remains of Saint John the Baptist and Saint Pelagius. But it’s the Chalice of Doña Urraca that captures my attention. This ancient Roman vessel, transformed in the 11th century into a jewel-encrusted sacred object, has long been associated with the Holy Grail. The chalice sits under a dramatic spotlight, adorned with gold, pearls and precious stones, and I pause, reflecting on its beauty and the weight of the story it carries.

(From left) Antonio, a calligraphy specialist, demonstrates the art of medieval writing at El Escribano; the writer’s personalized bookmark; El Escribano is a workshop and storefront devoted to the art and preservation of medieval writing. | PHOTOS: (LEFT AND MIDDLE) COURTESY OF SABRINA PIRILLO; (RIGHT) COURTESY OF EL ESCRIBANO

Living traditions at El Escribano in León

The next day, I join a guided tour through cobbled streets filled with busy shops and tapas bars. Our guide takes us into El Escribano, a storefront workshop dedicated to preserving the art of medieval writing.

The proprietor Antonio, a calligraphy specialist and member of the Association for the Recovery of Ancient Calligraphy, demonstrates his craft, creating a bookmark with my name written in medieval script. “This calligraphy was used by notaries in the 14th century,” he explains. “It was crazy lettering with high arches.”

As we emerge from the storefront into the hot midday sun, I admire my bookmark’s artistry. It feels like a small, tangible connection to León’s past, and to the preservation efforts the city has made to retain its historical culture.

A man in glasses and a navy shirt holds up a framed sheet of music on parchment

Antonio displays a piece of calligraphy at El Escribano. | PHOTO: COURTESY OF SABRINA PIRILLO

Cueva de Valporquero offers visitors otherworldly views of stalactites formed over millions of years. | PHOTO: LETICIA/ADOBE STOCK

A journey underground at Cueva de Valporquero

I’ve just begun to experience the richness of Castilla y León’s history and culture. But as I travel out of the city into the mountains, passing through unspoiled natural areas and diverse ecosystems, I see that the region encompasses much more than human history. My destination: the UNESCO-designated Los Argüellos Biosphere Reserve, where Cueva de Valporquero waits to be explored.

Sculpted by water and limestone over millions of years, the cueva (cave) contains seven chambers that visitors can pass through with a guide. My group embarks on the 2.4-km round trip, where we encounter a subterranean world of icicle-like stalactites, stalagmites and vividly coloured columns. The walk culminates in the Hall of Wonders, the cave’s final chamber.

Here, a mosaic of sculpted rock formations clusters around a hidden underground lake, and stalactites glisten in the dim light. The air feels cool and damp against my skin, and the space is quiet except for the steady drips of water echoing through the darkness. It’s a reminder that Castilla y León’s appeal goes far beyond its cities and towns — and that we’re lucky to experience such a magical place.

Ancient waters

Just over an hour by train from León, Valladolid offers a change of scenery and the opportunity to enjoy Ribera del Duero, the renowned wine-making area that surrounds it. I’m staying at Castilla Termal Monasterio de Valbuena, another former monastery — this one Cistercian, dating to the 12th century. Many of the rooms incorporate beautifully preserved features of the original building, and the property is now home to a luxury wellness resort that draws on the mineral-rich waters from the nearby San Bernardo Spring.

At the Valbuena spa, I ease into a warm thermal pool surrounded by frescoes that are reproductions of the ones in the Chapel of San Pedro. It’s hard to believe that for almost ten centuries, people have been enjoying these waters under this roof. Even here, soaking my sore muscles, I am immersed in history.

(From left) Castilla Termal Monasterio de Valbuena was originally built as a Cisterian monastery in the 11th century; a soaking pool under stone archways in the Valbuena spa; a guest room with a view at Castilla Termal. | PHOTOS: COURTESY OF CASTILLA TERMAL MONASTERIO DE VALBUENA

A colourful hot-air balloon rising over a field and hills

A hot-air balloon floating over rolling hills, golden fields and green vineyards

A hot-air balloon ride over Ribera del Duero reveals established wineries, rolling hills and a region well adapted to semi-arid conditions. | PHOTOS: COURTESY OF SABRINA PIRILLO

A taste of tradition in Ribera del Duero

The next morning, my sense of wonder expands on a hot-air balloon ride. We slowly ascend as the sun rises, and our group is treated to a bird’s-eye view of the shimmering Duero River as it winds between golden-brown fields and lush green vineyards.

“The Duero was the first employee of Valladolid,” jokes our balloon pilot, Roberto. “This is the perfect landscape for irrigation.” By the time the balloon gently bumps back to land, I’m ready for something to drink. We’re in the land of Old World wines, Tempranillo grapes, Rioja and Verdejo; the region is home to hundreds of wineries and underground wine cellars that date back centuries. It’s time to sample Ribera del Duero’s wares.

I spend the afternoon on a wine-tasting tour, sipping a crisp white Verdejo on a rooftop at José Pariente in Rueda, and a full-bodied Rioja at Ramón Bilbao, a 100-year-old winery famous for its elegant, aged reds. By the time I arrive back at Castilla Termal, I’m tired but happy from a sun-soaked afternoon of tasting, exploration and immersion in the long arc of Ribera del Duero tradition.

Later, with a glass of the hotel’s own Tempranillo Crianza in hand, I gaze out from my balcony at sweeping mountain views and a pink-streaked sky. The wine tastes of Castilla y León itself, full-bodied, complex, rich with history. It’s a taste I’ve only begun to savour — and one that will stay with me long after I’ve returned home. CAA

Ask a CAA Travel Consultant: How to drive in Castilla y León

Heading to Castilla y León for a holiday? CAA Travel Consultant Trisha Hall has the scoop on how to rent a car and drive in the region — and what makes Castilla y León so special.

How do I rent a car in Castilla y León? For Canadian travellers, I strongly recommend obtaining an International Driving Permit (IDP) through CAA before departure. Having an IDP can help avoid issues with rental agencies or local authorities, and serves as an official translation of your driver’s licence. Do you have any tips for driving in the region? Castilla y León is generally straightforward. Roads are well maintained, traffic is usually much lighter than in larger Spanish cities such as Madrid or Barcelona, and signage is clear. A few tips for driving:

Remember that driving is on the right side of the road.
Many historic town centres have narrow streets and limited parking, so choose accommodations with parking if possible.
Download offline maps or a navigation app before heading into rural areas.
Watch speed limits carefully, as speed cameras are common throughout Spain.
If you’re planning to visit multiple villages or countryside attractions, a car will save considerable time and provide much greater flexibility than public transportation.

What do you enjoy most about Castilla y León? I love the authenticity of the experience. This is a region where you can wander through medieval streets, visit stunning cathedrals and castles, and still feel like you’re experiencing Spain as locals do. The region is also known for its excellent wine, traditional cuisine and beautiful landscapes, making it an ideal destination for travellers who enjoy history, culture and a slower pace of travel. – Liz Gold

Plan your trip to Castilla y León with the help of a CAA Travel Consultant.

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