TRAVEL
Three-way Thai
A Canadian living in Thailand takes us on an island-hopping holiday.
By Chris Parker | Photography by Ulf Svane
Rawai Beach, at the south end of Phuket Island.
THAILAND SHOULD COME WITH A WARNING: May result in addiction. Nestled in between Cambodia, Laos and Myanmar, and situated on the Gulf of Thailand, the country has all the elements to make a magnificent holiday — tropical beaches, richly layered food, vibrant nightlife and a Buddhist culture more than 2,000 years old that invites exploration.
It’s not surprising then that Thailand is one of the most visited countries in the world — by nature lovers, adventure seekers and those looking for a relaxing vacation.
My adopted country is a long way for Canadians to come, so one way for visitors to make the most of their time is to visit three popular islands in southern Thailand — Phuket, Ko Phangan and Ko Samui. This is how I suggest spending a day on each island, here in the land that stole my heart.
A fresh coconut for the sipping; Layan Beach, on a serene bay on the west coast of Phuket; local fare at a restaurant in Phuket.
PHUKET
At 48 kilometres long and 21 kilometres at its widest, Phuket is Thailand’s biggest island. It sits just off the west coast, in the Andaman Sea, with rolling hills and thick rain forests with gushing waterfalls — all framed by magnificent beaches such as Rawai and Karon. It’s also a cosmopolitan island renowned for its nightlife — from wild nightclubs that draw international revellers to quiet beer bars, dinner shows and beach spots. A beach bar was where I first fell in love with Phuket. I was strolling down the beach and came across a hut filled with local expats, gathered in anticipation of the sunset. I could tell this was a nightly ritual. A hand-painted sign was nailed to a coconut tree with the name of the place: Beach Pig. I was then seated at a bamboo table with my feet in the sand, a plate of barbecued fresh seafood in front of me and an ice-cold mojito at my lips.
With scorching heat in mind — the temperature in Thailand is typically between 30 and 40 C — perhaps it’s best to start exploring Phuket from the water. Phang Nga Bay, which spans 400 square kilometres, is dotted with limestone cliffs, rock formations and caves and was once part of a huge coral reef that covered much of Southeast Asia. Paddle a kayak, or board a local long-tail boat and drift on impossibly clear water through the postcard lagoons, passing mangrove forests and tiny deserted islands. The region is a bounty for birdwatchers, with the likes of kingfishers, little herons, frigatebirds and blue rock thrushes typically on display. You can also spot monitor lizards — which can grow to six feet long — sunning themselves on rocks, long-tailed macaque monkeys languishing on beaches and, high above, dusky langurs jumping through the trees.
Back on land, Phuket has exceptional hiking trails to explore. Mueang Phuket in the south is home to the Big Buddha, the 45-metre-tall white marble statue that sits majestically on a lush mountain. The 7.4-kilometre out-and-back trail offers a Thai rain forest immersion — think giant hardwoods, palms, ferns, bamboo and a variety of orchids — and an abundance of birds creating a ceaseless cacophony of song.
Built in 2004, the Big Buddha, made of reinforced concrete and layered in marble, is one of Phuket's most revered cultural and religious symbols. | BACKGROUND VIDEO: BATU DIGITAL/ENVATO
“The street is teeming with people, colour and sound.”
Phuket also has something the other islands do not: a city. Spend an evening strolling the streets of Old Phuket Town with its historic two- and three-storey wood Sino-Portuguese heritage houses painted in a rainbow of colours. You can spend at least a month of foodie exploration here and not hit the same restaurant twice.
There are numerous night markets buzzing throughout the island, but for the best, head to the Sunday night market on Thalang Road, where the famous Walking Street (locally called Lard Yai) hosts dozens of stalls selling local fare. Everything can be sampled here, from fish cakes grilled on skewers to dancing shrimp (consumed while still alive) to bamboo shoots marinated in chicken blood. The street is teeming with people, colour and sound — buskers perform live music all evening along this brightly lit market that becomes even more bustling after dark.
Above a storefront in Phuket Town, featuring Sino-Portuguese architecture.
KO PHANGAN
Ko Phangan in southeast Thailand — known for its slower lifestyle focused on health, well-being and nature — is the country’s fifth-largest island, at 168 square kilometres. It’s hilly — the highest elevation is Khao Ra, 630 metres above sea level — which makes it a popular destination for trekking and camping.
Begin your Ko Phangan adventure by cooling off in an underwater paradise. With gentle currents and a medley of marine life, this island is ideal for snorkelling, and one of the best spots is right off Mae Haad Beach on the West Coast. Slip below the waves and encounter vibrant corals teeming with life. Marvel at majestic sea turtles, razor fish, cuttlefish and huge schools of fusiliers.
For a magnificent day on land, check out the famously secluded Bottle Beach situated northeast of Ko Phangan. It can only be reached by 15-minute taxi boat from Chaloklum or via a somewhat challenging two-hour hike, which starts in Haad Khom Beach. Both modes of transport offer stunning views of the coastline and massive rock formations. And the payoff upon arrival? Fine white sand, turquoise waters, sky-reaching palm trees and a lush jungle as a backdrop make this remote beach a picture-book paradise.
In the evening, if you’re in search of authentic Thai street food, follow the sound of motorbikes (lots of them) and hit Pantip Night Market at the pier in the town of Thong Sala. Browse the busy stalls with locals and tourists alike for tropical fruit smoothies and a great selection of culinary offerings both sweet (banana-chocolate samosas) and savoury (grilled seafood and freshly made Thai curries). You’ll also find vendors selling non-food items, notably, a tremendous amount of second-hand clothing (if you’re looking for a funky ’fit for a night out).
Ko Phangan's Bottle Beach, a relatively secluded spot situated under Bottle Beach Viewpoint, which is on the northern coast of the island. | PHOTO: ANNA BIENIEK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
KO SAMUI
Ko Samui is Thailand's second-largest island, at 25 km long and 21 km wide. The island’s vibe feels somewhere between busy Phuket and chilled-out Ko Phangan. The blend of local Thais, expats and travellers from all over the world are here to experience what Travel & Leisure named the No. 1 Island in Asia-Pacific in 2024.
For an unforgettable time on the water, embark on a day-long tour of Ang Thong National Marine Park, where you can explore a protected archipelago of 42 islands, most of which are deserted. In this serene setting, you’ll find yourself alone on some of the most pristine beaches in the world. Pause and listen to the solitary sound of waves lapping at the shore. And watch for rare inhabitants that flourish, undisturbed by development, such as tree-climbing crabs, which are larger than hermit and sand crabs and have powerful pincers.
Back on land and ready for a hike, rent a scooter (or take a taxi or tuktuk) and head toward the jungle at Na Muang. After a short distance on a moderate trail, you’ll encounter the first of two waterfalls, Na Muang 1, which is 18 metres high and quite wide with a massive amount of water flowing down. Pause, admire and prepare to be soaked by its powerful spray. Another 10 minutes along the trail is the real prize — a second waterfall called, predictably, Na Muang 2. Continue on the path toward the top of the waterfall to find natural cooling-off pools — hollows in the rocks where water collects from the waterfall. At the top, bear witness to a natural infinity pool and a fantastic view overlooking the jungle and the palm trees below.
There’s no shortage of sights, activities and experiences to fully enjoy on each of these spectacular islands. And it’s certainly understandable for visitors to have a strong desire to return or, in my case, never leave. CAA
The smaller of the two Na Muang waterfalls, Na Muang Waterfall 2, offers stunning views and the waters crashing down create small pools for wading; a 45-minute boat ride from Ko Phangan, Ang Thong National Marine Park is one of the world's most stunning island archipelagos; a leaf-eating Langur monkey at Ang Thong National Park. | PHOTOS: ALEXANDER OZEROV/ADOBE STOCK; BLOODUA/iSTOCK; CL-MEDIEN/ADOBE STOCK
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Built in 2004, the Big Buddha, made of reinforced concrete and layered in marble, is one of Phuket's most revered cultural and religious symbols.